The Dec. 24, 2017

The long crossing

71.8km
988.1m
333.0m

Today we are embarking on the ambitious goal of crossing the Andes in one day. That's how it looks:

  1. From where we slept we must reach Todos los Santos lake within 10km
  2. Then we will cross the lake Todos los Santos by boat, which should take 1h40
  3. Once on the other side, in Peulla, we have 27-30km of track to reach the next lake, Lake Friar which is in Argentina. This is the hardest part of the day since the track ends with 7km of steep climb followed by 4km of steep descent, all in just a few hours because the boat sails only once a day at 17:00
  4. From there we will cross Lake Friar in 10min
  5. 3km of track separates Lake Friar from Lake Nahuel Huapi
  6. The crossing of Lake Nahuel Huapi will take 1 hour. We'll arrive on a paved road, 25km from San Carlos de Bariloche, the Argentine Chamonix

We start the day with these information and we have enough food to last several days if we get stuck between two lakes for Christmas.

The weather is really bad this morning. The clouds are very low and it's raining, we can't see anything. It doesn't take much time to reach the first lake. Once the lake crossings are paid, we cross the lake Todos los Santos, disappointed not to be able to see the pretty mountains and volcanoes around. During the crossing, we ask the guide if they can carry our luggage to the next boat, as for other passengers who take the bus. Unfortunately it seems that this is not the house policy, but he offers us to take them on the road when his bus will meet us later in the day.

As soon as we land, we pass through the Chilean border post before we start riding. The track is very bad at the beginning. Our morale drops very quickly and we are resigning to spend Christmas between here and the lake Friar in Argentina. After our lunch we go back on our rides and reach a section of the track much better than the first. Morale goes up, it's OK, we can do it in one day.

It's at the beginning of the 7km climb that we cross the bus. The guide and the driver are concerned: we will never have time to reach the lake. They very kindly propose us to take luggage, bicycles and passengers in the bus to be sure that we can take the boat. The baggage and Floriane's bike fit in the bus but there is no more place for François' bike. Luckily a car of the Carabineros (Chilean policemen) follows the bus towards the lake. It's a kind of pickup but covered in the back to transport possible detainees. No luck, the bike does not fit completely, it's too long and the door doesn't close. François decides to stay in the back of the car with the bike to prevent him from falling. Floriane embarks in the bus with the other passengers.

The climb is chaotic and it is very complicated for François not to fall from the vehicle with the bike. He stalls his right foot on one end of the bumper that protrudes a bit and places the other in front of the pedal to prevent the bike from falling, the left hand firmly gripping the front brake. It can almost not raise his head without touching the ceiling of the cabin. The car is old and all the parts clash and make a hell of a binge.

Initially we agreed to go downhill by bike, but we didn't have enough time and we decide to stay in the same configuration. The break is just long enough for Floriane to see Francois in his trunk. Once at the bottom, we pass the Argentine border post, admire a replica of Che Gevara's motorbike when he crossed the Andes here, then we embark for the crossing of Lake Friar.

The 3 kilometers between the last two lakes are easily done, baggage are transported with the others in a truck. The crossing of the last lake is more pleasant, the sun show itself a little and we can see the surrounding mountains.

We land on the road in the midst of luxury hotels. We can't find anywhere to camp for 10 kilometers before finding a roadside campsite. The owners are on the departure and the campsite is closed tomorrow. But it's late, 20:30 and they let us settle anyway. We have no check-out time tomorrow, it's Christmas. We spend a good evening sheltered from the rain. Tomorrow is late morning!